Este relato foi traduzido e anotado por Elisa Gomes da Torre e publicado em 2017 pelo Instituto Açoriano de Cultura, sob o título «Diário de um Náufrago nas Flores e no Faial», de John Fowler. Vale a pena ler as interessantes notas, bem como, e sobretudo, a introdução.

O naufrágio ocorreu a 25 de Outubro de 1830, na sequência de uma colisão dois dias antes, a 6 milhas, para (sud)oeste, de Ponta Delgada, tendo os passageiros e tripulação sido abrigados em casas de uma povoação em lugar alto e com local assistir à missa (uma igreja, provavelmente), bem como com padre residente. Talvez se trate do Lajedo, mas não é evidente.

Aqui vai uma parte do texto:

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At day-break on the 25th, being the eighth day since our accident, we first discovered the islands of Corvo and Flores, the former bearing E. by N., and the latter S.E. Shortly after the crew were summoned, and a consultation held as to the course it would be most eligible for us to pursue. After due deliberation, and viewing the circumstances of the case in all its bearings, the shattered state of our vessel, the uncertainty of the wind continuing favourable, which, indeed, had already become less so, and the number of lives at stake, it was unanimously determined to make the first land we could. As the day advanced, the wind continued to back more to the southward, and notwithstanding we were once again in sight of land, we could not repress some unwelcome forebodings, conscious how much depended upon the next twelve hours. If, as appeared probable, the wind settled in its present quarter, or it came on to blow before we had made either of the islands now in view, we could have no hopes from the Azores, the remainder being situated still farther to the south, and to be exposed to another gale, which, even if we weathered, might drive us we knew not whither, was an alternative well calculated to excite our apprehensions. To leave nothing, however, unessayed on our part, we commenced clearing our anchors and cables, got our long-boat, such as it was, ready to hoist over, and with some barrels and spars constructed a raft, to be used in case of emergency. We had intended to have passed to the south of the Island of Flores, and thus round to Santa Cruz, (the principal town on the island, and situated on the eastern part of it,) hoping there to meet with anchorage and assistance ; but this we now found utterly impracticable, and, though we kept gradually nearing land, all we could anticipate was to touch at its north-western extremity. By two in the afternoon we supposed ourselves within twelve or fifteen miles of this point, and hoisted a signal of distress; afterwhich we had very frequent recourse to the telescope to discover the features of the unknown coast we were approaching, which had, indeed, a most wild, rocky, and formidable aspect: here and there we observed some patches of cultivation, but no other evidence of the existence of a human being was any where visible. In this forlorn and perplexing situation, at five o’clock, we found ourselves close in with the land, and a current setting us towards it. To effect anchorage was impossible; in fact, the very idea of anchoring at all in the state we were, to put to sea again upon the first shift of wind, was little better than preposterous ; and to depend upon our boat, at any distance from the shore, was equally visionary. The night was coming on with unfavourable indications as to weather: the steerage part of our cargo in particular “were mad for land,” imploring that the chance might not be thrown away; and, dreadful as was the alternative, there seemed to be no other choice left us but to suffer the vessel to drive upon the rocks. We accordingly selected a small inlet between two immense projections rising nearly perpendicularly out of the ocean to the height of two or three hundred feet, as the most sheltered spot which presented itself for effecting a landing. The moments which intervened between this resolve and the striking of the ship may be much better fancied than described: the most death-like silence prevailed, or was only interrupted by the wild clamours of the sea-gull and the breaking surf before us. The frowning masses of rock between which we were entering seemed like two vast portals ready to close upon us; and to most, I doubt not, earnest as had been the desire for the adoption of the expedient, it appeared far more like an approach to destruction than deliverance. Our black steward, who had lived through one or two wrecks before, looked absolutely horrid with affright. A while previous I had observed him overpowered with anguish, and abandoning himself to despair: he knew, he said, that the vessel would go to pieces, that all could not be landed, and that he was sure to be last thought of. I endeavoured all I could to allay the poor fellow’s apprehensions; told him that if we had not to swim for it, he should, at any rate, take his turn before me: but all would not do: a strange presentiment had seized upon him that he was destined to perish here, and it was not until he saw himself safe upon the rocks that he could be convinced to the contrary. I had certainly expected the masts, being so nearly unsupported on one side, to have fallen at the moment of the concussion; but the rocks in this inlet running out for some little distance under water, the keel of the ship ground along them, perhaps for more than half its length, which contributed much to lessen the violence of the final shock: this had no sooner occurred than we got our boat to the side, and commenced putting in the women and children. By this time several of the natives had made their appearance, and some in the most magnanimous manner swam off to our assistance. A rope was then attached to each end of the boat; one we retained in the ship, and the other passed to the people on the rocks; by which means it was towed backwards and forwards until all were landed, though leaking the whole time to such a degree that three or four men were obliged to be constantly baling to keep it afloat. Some of our passengers seeing this, in the onset, and probably thinking they stood as good a chance of reaching the shore by one means as another, had thrown over the raft, but in their precipitation jumping all on one side of it, it was, of course, upset, and two of the number very nearly lost their lives: – one (by his own account an ex-midshipman of the royal navy) it was my happiness to rescue, just as he was giving over the last struggle for existence. As soon as all were safely on shore, our next care was to secure some provisions, and such of our luggage as could be most conveniently come at; but the surf beginning to break more violently, and our boat being in the wretched plight alluded to, we were shortly obliged to forego the attempt, and give up all until we could procure some further assistance. We forthwith inquired if there were any agent of the American Consul upon the island, and being informed that a Vice-Consul resided at Santa Cruz, we despatched a messenger to that place, (a circuitous route of about twelve miles over the mountains,) to acquaint him with our unfortunate situation, and requesting that he would lose no time in repairing to the wreck. We then threw ourselves down under the rocks, and overpowered with long watching, fatigue, and anxiety, all wet as we were, sank involuntarily to sleep. Our repose, however, was but of short duration, being broken in upon by the sound of a quarrel which had commenced between the crew and the natives; the former having contrived to bring on shore a part of a cask of spirits, and becoming completely intoxicated, sailor-like, were seeking with all possible avidity to “kick up a row.” Foreseeing the unpleasant consequences which such proceedings might lead to, for the natives had now flocked down from the mountains in considerable numbers, and many of them, too, had drank pretty freely from the same maddening source, an attempt was made to put an end to the contention by knocking in the head of the cask. This, though it effectually prevented a recurrence of the evil, for a time only added fuel to the flame; the crew especially, with the exception of one man, who conducted himself admirably, behaved in the most outrageous and infamous manner, even threatening our lives, and endeavouring all in their power to exasperate the natives against us, who, had they been left to themselves, would have manifested no disposition of the kind. As it was, from one, or the other, or both, we were every moment expecting an attack; and though none was made, it was chiefly the cause of adding one more to the many anxious and almost sleepless nights we had passed. In the midst of these disturbances, one or two boats made their appearance at the ship, for the purpose of plunder, which we had no means of preventing, though I do not imagine they carried off any thing of consequence. Before it was light a man in authority arrived; that is to say, a description of constable, armed with a black thorn stick nearly as tall as himself, and who gave us to understand that he was deputed by the Governor to protect the property. At first we were inclined to yield but little credit to his representations; but seeing that by virtue of his wand and various official threatenings he was able to keep his own countrymen, at least, at a most respectful distance, we allowed him to proceed as he would, and found him, contrary to expectation, a very useful sort of personage. In this way we put on till near eight o’clock, when we observed a number of boats approaching the ship, (now rolling heavily, and appearing to be filling fast with water,) one of which contained the Vice-Consul, Mr. Borges, who immediately came on shore, and in the most kind and feeling manner expressed his concern for our misfortune, at the same time congratulating us upon our truly miraculous escape from a watery grave. He then returned to the ship, and commenced saving whatever he could. – It appeared that the nearest place of security was Ponte del Gada, another and much larger inlet, lying about six miles to the east of the present, and where was also a small village. Between this place and the wreck the boats kept incessantly plying during the day, and succeeded in getting off the greater part of the passengers’ luggage, the sails, cables, &c., and about 200 barrels of flour, of which the cargo chiefly consisted. In the evening came our turn, and a most formidable and perilous undertaking it was. The surf now broke so high at the head of the inlet as to render it impossible to bring a boat up to that part; one or two were near being dashed to pieces in making the attempt, and it seemed every way probable that we must content ourselves with another night’s lodging upon the rocks. After various fruitless endeavours, however, it was ascertained that a small cavity at the side of one of the projections would afford sufficient security to a boat, if we could manage to reach it; but with this proviso, the difficulty scarcely seemed less than before; the rock along which we must pass, about one-third of the way up, being, as I have stated, nearly perpendicular, with only a narrow shelving ledge, in some places scarcely wide enough for the feet, and where the slightest hesitation or faltering would have been irretrievably and instantly fatal. Many, at once, determined to remain where they were, or get over the island how they could, rather than make the experiment; and few of those who undertook its performance would have been more readily prevailed upon to repeat it. I am satisfied it never would have been accomplished at all, without the assistance of the natives, who are so habituated to scrambling amongst the rocks, that their feats in this way are absolutely incredible, and upon the present occasion, besides almost running along themselves without difficulty, they had to carry several of the passengers, and some bulky articles of luggage. It was nearly dark before the first boat was freighted, (the last, I believe, did not get off till between nine and ten,) and loaded it was to within a few inches of the water’s edge; the wind ahead, and blowing fresh. In this state we pushed out, and had to pilot our way through the most dreadful rocks and breakers I ever beheld, oftentimes running close upon them before they were perceptible. On one side, and nearly a mile distant, lay an iron-bound coast, like one perpendicular wall of rock, and on the other the open ocean, or with only the small Island of Corvo intervening. Our danger, indeed, seemed scarcely less imminent than that from which we had been so lately rescued, and though our boatmen were familiar with the track, and managed the boat skilfully, it was evident that they were by no means charmed with their situation, and none of us felt otherwise than perfectly satisfied to be landed in safety at Ponte del Gada, and leave Santa Cruz for daylight, or some more favourable opportunity. After quitting the boat we had to ascend the rocks by a most rugged road, and continued along the summit until we reached the miserable huts where we were to take up our quarters for the night. For our steerage company, a large room, being an appendage to the Mass-house, had been obligingly set apart by the priest, who also entertained two or three at his own house. The rest of us disposed of ourselves as we could, and upon the floors of the different habitations, some with beds, and some with none, full soon forgot the dangers and hardships we had encountered, and, I’ll answer for it, enjoyed a night of as sweet, perhaps sweeter, repose than any King in Christendom. – In the morning, – 27th of October, – Mr. Borges had been intending to return to the wreck, with the boats, and renew his exertions at saving the cargo, but the sea had got up so much during the night, and it was blowing so fresh, that no one could be found willing to run the risk; and knowing that the vessel, where she was stranded, must quickly go to pieces, he considered it best to sell the whole, by auction, without delay; and in all the uncertainty of being able to save any thing further, the utmost bidding that could be obtained amounted only to 261 dollars, for which sum our poor unfortunate ship, with her remaining cargo, was accordingly knocked down. A boat was afterwards sent off by the purchasers, and lost; but all on board fortunately escaped.

The weather continuing very boisterous and unfavourable, we remained here until the 29th, when we again set out in open boats for Santa Cruz, twelve miles further to the S.E. Previous to our leaving, there had been some further arrivals of flour from the wreck, all of which had been under water, and appeared much damaged. Our passage was about as hazardous and unpleasant as upon the former occasion, excepting that we had the day instead of the night to perform it in, and being thus enabled to discern danger before in immediate contact with it, we were somewhat better prepared to guard against it. Upon landing at Santa Cruz, as soon as arrangements could be made, there being no inn, or place of public entertainment, we were variously billeted, the crew, and the chief part of the steerage passengers, were housed in a building near the Fort; some got admission into the Convent, but were so terribly alarmed when its massy doors were closed upon them, that the poor friars were obliged to liberate them, to the no small relief of the one, and amusement of the other. Several were accommodated at a Scotchman’s, who had settled in the place as a professor of physic. Mr. Borges invited Captain B. and myself to his residence, and thus, by degrees, all were as well, and much better cared for, than shipwrecked men have any right to expect to be, or very commonly are.

Here, without anticipating the future, we were willing to consider our toils and troubles at an end, and though but upon a rock , as it were , in the midst of the wide Atlantic, felt thankful for the deliverance we had experienced, and rather wishing a transient interval of rest, than again to cast ourselves upon the treacherous waves of ocean: for the moment

“Lovely seemed any object that should sweep

Away the vast, salt, dread, eternal deep.”

Such, at least, were my sentiments and impressions upon my safe arrival at Santa Cruz; and I was further gratified to find the detention we were likely to meet with would afford me an opportunity of rambling over the island, and contemplating scenes and objects of, to me, a novel and highly interesting character; as, however, before the period of our continuance here had expired, most, or all, excepting myself, began to be more or less troubled with ennui, and anxious for the hour of departure, perhaps, were I to transcribe the detail of my Journal, I might run some risk of producing a like feeling in the mind of the reader, and I shall therefore extract, as I have frequently done, the very little which I find possessing general interest.

The Island of Flores is in latitude 39° 33′, and longitude 31° 8′. It is about twelve miles long from north to south, and six miles wide in the centre, from east to west, narrowing a little towards each end.* It is for the most part mountainous and rugged, every where demonstrating the existence of volcanic eruptions at a former period, although none have occurred within memory. Some of its slopes towards the sea, and portions also of the interior of the island, present small inclosures, walled with lava and pumice-stone, and highly cultivated; with a soil of uncommon richness and fertility, producing Indian corn, wheat, yams, and potatoes, with a plentiful supply of herbage, amongst which I may include lupins, raised and cut for the cattle in a green state.

* When I have heretofore spoken of distances from place to place in this island, I must be understood as meaning the distance of land or water necessary to be passed over, to avoid the hills, or the rocks, as the case may be.

There is nothing that can be denominated timber upon the island; but besides a few orange plantations, apple, pear, and fig trees, there are trees and shrubs of various kinds, supplying all that is necessary for fuel and other purposes. The evergreens are chiefly the fir, box, juniper, laurel, and lauristinus, with some cedar, which grow luxuriantly, and often conceal with their deep foliage the otherwise barren rocks amongst which they spring. Water is very abundant, and of the purest quality, intersecting the valleys in small rapid streams, often in its course turning the overshot wheel of a neat little corn-mill. Sometimes it continues along the heights until it reaches the rocks on the coast, from the lofty elevations of which it is seen descending at once in beautiful cascades into the ocean, and, in some situations, vessels visiting the island for water can obtain a supply by sending out their casks in a boat, without having occasion to land.

The population of Flores is estimated at about 8,000, of which 1,500 may be resident in Santa Cruz, and more than half that number at Lagens, another small town to the south of Santa Cruz, also on the eastern side of the island. The remainder is dispersed in several trifling villages, and detached dwellings, more properly denominated huts than cottages.

Of the chief town, Santa Cruz, little favourable can be said. It consists pretty much of three narrow streets, leading from the sea, in parallel lines, for a distance of near a quarter of a mile, to another street, which runs from south-east to north-west, in the direction of Ponte del Gada. Immediately behind the town is a high hill, with a very steep ascent, cultivated almost to the summit, which is chiefly overgrown with juniper. There was formerly a sort of vigia, or look-out, upon it; but only a few yards of the wall are now remaining.

The better kind of houses are built of stone, the walls very thick, never exceeding two stories high, and usually having a balcony from the upper rooms, with glazed folding doors opening into it: here the inmates are mostly to be seen lounging about in dishabille, with no other object or excitement save that of noticing occasional passing acquaintance, between whom and themselves a host of ceremonies and compliments is expected to take place. The lower rooms, if not used as cellars or store-rooms, are seldom furnished or inhabited. The mildness of the climate precludes the necessity of fires, and in no room, except the kitchen, is a fire-place ever seen. The rest, and by far the greater part, of the houses are mere cottages, rather roughly constructed and white-washed. There are two small shops or stores in the town, at the principal of which I am told the receipts will not average more than two dollars per day, and even with that a twelvemonth’s credit is frequently given; such, in fact, is the scarcity of money, that trading may almost be said to be carried on upon a system of barter. The rent of land is, I believe, universally paid in produce.

The public buildings are a Church and a Convent: the former very lofty and spacious, large enough to contain half the population of the island, but with grass growing in the interior on each side of the ile, just as on the outside, except at the upper end, where the arrangements are very similar to those of Catholic churches generally, and crosses, images of saints, &c. &c. occupy every little niche and situation in which it seems possible to place them. – The Convent is an irregular stone building, in size better corresponding with the magnitude of the Church than the insignificance of the town. It contains several roomy halls and other apartments, and is occupied by a few friars, who evidently take better care of themselves than the building; for whilst the former are well fed, sleek, and comely, the latter has but a neglected and dreary appearance. There are not any nuns in the island.

The Jail and the Custom-house are unworthy of notice; but there is a little edifice on the outskirts of the town which, for the novelty and ingenuity of its design and construction, must not be so passed over. It is a kind of Foundling Hospital, and one which, if secrecy be desirable, seems better adapted to meet the feelings of parties and the exigencies of the case than any thing I ever before heard of. The building is of stone, with windows only in the front. In the gable end is a small aperture, in which is affixed a barrel turning upon a pivot, in an upright position, with a few staves out on one side. In an ordinary way the perfect side of the barrel is outwards, but whenever any are desirous of availing themselves of the institution, upon arrival at the spot, a few slight taps immediately arrest the attention of the residents, who as promptly, without either having or seeking an opportunity of observation, present the open part of the barrel to receive the hapless consignment, which is no sooner made than the bearer decamps, the barrel is returned to its former position, and the little stranger being safely dislodged, receives at once, and during the first years of its infancy, such care and attention as are here deemed requisite; after which, in the simple fashion of the country, it soon learns to cater for itself, and subsists in various ways. I was not a little amused with this unique establishment upon my first discovery of it, but good and evil are often too much blended together, and in this instance their connexion is obvious. It no doubt fully and effectually prevents the horrid crime of infanticide, but at the same time removes a very primary incentive to correct conduct and virtue in the female, and trenches fearfully upon the “chaste connubial tie,” which is, amongst the peasantry, (to whom these remarks solely apply,) very generally dispensed with.

I have spoken of the Fort, but as may be supposed, it is rather a name than a reality. It is situated on a point of rock overlooking the sea, at the south-east of the town. There are not more than two or three guns mounted, and no regular soldier, I believe, in the island.

There is nothing like a bay or harbour at Santa Cruz. The coast about the town is low, and very rocky, so that only small vessels can approach near it, and these have sometimes to beat about for days, and even weeks, before it is safe to attempt it, and always upon their arrival are immediately hauled up, upon rollers, by main strength, out of the water, to the bottom of the street, leading down to the port, a distance of forty or fifty yards, to secure them from the surf, which frequently breaks here, as elsewhere, with great violence. There is anchorage (the best the island affords) at a mile or two from the town; but it is such as is altogether dependant upon the wind, and vessels must be prepared to put off to sea whenever that becomes unfavourable. Two schooners belonging to individuals at Santa Cruz comprise the shipping of Flores. They make annually several trips to some of the other islands, with grain, cattle, orchilla, and woollen stuffs – rather of a rude manufacture – which they exchange for wine and other commodities. A few schooners from the other islands also occasionally visit Flores, beyond which it has little communication with them , or the rest of the world, except an American whaler, or other vessel puts in for refreshments, or like us, in a case of dernier resort and distress.

The Government of the island is chiefly vested in two authorities, called the Governor and the Judge, every way worthy representatives of their wretched master, Don Miguel, who having present possession of the throne of Portugal, exercises dominion over all the Azores, excepting Terceira, which espouses the cause of Donna Maria. The power of these petty tyrants appears of a summary and absolute character, extending to the prevention of any one launching a boat, or going to a vessel, although in distress, without their permission; and to the imprisonment, during their own pleasure, of whoever upon meeting them, or even passing their houses, omits the ceremony of taking off the hat. With these specimens of despotism, it were a farce to talk of jurisprudence, and as superfluous to add that the people generally are in a state of abject and degrading vassalage; but inured to subjection, they submit without repining, and, cultivating their fertile lands, or engaging themselves in fishing, obtain much more than a supply for their limited wants, and are contented and happy: – would that as much could be said of others under more enlightened and liberal systems!

Both men and women, for the most part, though rather short, are well made and healthy; their complexions clearer than those of the Portuguese on the continent of Europe; but their features are not unfrequently wanting in expression, if I except their fine black eyes, the beauty and brilliancy of which but render the contrast the greater. That class of society in the island whose means exempt them from the necessity of labour, lead a life of excessive indolence and supineness, scarcely relieved by amusements of any kind; even walking seems too great an exertion for them, and riding is out of the question, for there is scarcely either horse, mule, or ass in the island. Fourteen or fifteen hours, out of the twenty-four, they frequently spend in bed. The men, except when they appear in public, are almost slovenly in their dress, and no sooner enter the house, after having been out, no matter what the hour of the day, than their visiting attire is put off, and the undress resumed. The women are much more neat and cleanly in their dress and persons; their manners are unaffected, and their dispositions kind and obliging; but, destitute of those accomplishments, and, in fact, of opportunity of acquiring them, which distinguish female society in polished communities, they appear to great disadvantage to strangers. They go even less frequently from home than the men, and their seclusion scarcely differs, but in name, from that of the convent. If, however, they have not the refinements, they are at least exempt from many of the follies and dissipations of a more public and fashionable life, and, were there not a medium in adjusting the balance between the good and evil of the two, I, for one, must give the preponderance altogether in favour of the ladies of Flores.

The dress of the peasantry has nothing very peculiar in it. They rarely wear either shoes or stockings; nor, except when dressed for church, &c., any covering upon the head. On these occasions the women completely envelop both head and face in the immense hoods of their cloaks, or in large white handkerchiefs, which they hold out before them as far as the arm can extend, keeping them closed in front, except just so much as enables them to discern their way; and the fingers with which they are held are usually ornamented with a ring or two, which they appear studious to display. They have a purple flower, very common in the fields, which they call “the Nun,” so exactly resembling this costume, that one would almost think it had furnished them with the hint for its adoptions but whilst the one is simply natural and graceful, the other is equally unbecoming and preposterous.

The style of living, that is, of cookery, amongst the better class, embraces rather too much of soups, ragouts, and made-ups, to relish with English taste. Scarcely a joint appears at table that has not been spoiled, in some way or other, of its fair proportions. If it succeed to soup, it is nothing more than a collection of dry, insipid shreds. The soup, to be sure, is all the better for it, and with rice, vermicelli, and such like et ceteras, is excellent; but woe to those who make reservation, or think to thrive upon the meat; – it is about as nutritious and satisfying as the pith of a bulrush. It is not the custom to help each person separately, but to cut and hand round the table a number of slices upon a plate, as we do cheese, and no one commences until all are served; an etiquette which is repeated with as many courses as may be introduced, and becomes quite a tiresome and formal observance. A little wine is drank during dinner, but the American fashion obtains of rising and withdrawing instantly afterwards. Three meals are taken during the day: – breakfast on rising, often at a late hour, of coffee, tea, eggs, &c.; – dinner, from one to two; and tea, or some slight repast, at six or seven in the evening, which is no sooner concluded than all creep off to bed, seemingly wearied out with their day of nothingness.

Yams and potatoes constitute the chief food of the peasantry; sometimes a little fish; and water, or the light wines imported from the other islands, their only beverage. They are an industrious, inoffensive race, though not quite free from a disposition to pilfer when opportunity offers, or so we found them; perhaps it may be more from strangers than amongst themselves. Any of the greater crimes are rarely known amongst them.

Provisions are very cheap. Beef, pork, and bacon,* excellent. Sheep are small, and seldom used for food, the wool being considered the most valuable part of the animal. Poultry and fish are in great plenty, as are also rabbits, quail, and pigeons; the latter precisely the same as our common blue dovecote pigeon, but quite in a wild state. The pursuit of them afforded some of our party no little diversion, but they are rarely molested by the natives. The peasantry care nothing about them, and the gentry are too idle for sportsmen.

* A very singular custom prevails of shaving the backs of their hogs. I have asked them if the operation is performed in compliment to their friars; but the reason they assign for it is, that it has a tendency to make them spread in fattening. If it be so, the secret is worth knowing; but I am sceptical enough to believe that their yams and Indian corn, upon which the animals are plentifully fed, are much more concerned in producing the effect than the razor.

The roads of the island are of the most rugged kind, narrow, and, in many places, but mere passages worn amongst the rocks. I am not very ready to coin excuses for abridging the exercise of walking, but so intolerably bad did I find them, that, besides one or two severe falls, for some days after landing I was scarcely able to hobble along at all, and destroyed more boots and shoes in three weeks than would commonly serve me for as many months. The peasantry, however, travel over them with their naked feet, thinking no more of inconvenience than if pacing the turf of a bowling-green; and when their betters are inclined, or have occasion to travel, for a mere trifle they will carry them in hammocks, upon their shoulders, half over the island.

Goods and produce are conveyed upon a kind of small dray, or oval platform, drawn by oxen. It is a rudely-constructed thing, altogether of wood, and when in motion the creaking of the wheels is, to unaccustomed ears, beyond any patient endurance; but if ever I suggested the application of a little grease, I was invariably assured that the noise had an enlivening effect upon the oxen, and that it was the study of the driver to produce it in the greatest possible degree: thus foiled, I could but let them creak on, lamenting that the ears of their oxen were pitched to no finer key, or that their own carelessness and indifference, to which I ascribed it, should so readily fur-nish them with an excuse for the non-suppression of the nuisance.

Of one occurrence which took place during our stay at Santa Cruz, namely, the interment of an infant after the rites of the Catholic church, – a ceremony I had never before witnessed in a strictly Catholic country, – I have preserved this notice: – The father of the child was baker-general to our company, and upon going into his house I saw the little thing lying in state. The coffin was placed upon a table, in the middle of one of the rooms, which contained scarcely any other furniture, with a large cross at the head of it, and surrounded by a number of wax tapers. It was of very slight manufacture, not more in substance than a bandbox, covered with marble paper, and opening with hinges at each side; the ends raised to a point in the centre, so that when closed the upper part formed a kind of roof, which was merely tied together in two places by ribbands. The body was dressed with the nicest care, and deposited in it, with a bunch of flowers in the hands, which were joined upon its breast. In a short time as many friars as the room would well contain, with shaven crowns, and in long dirty cloaks, made their appearance, and stationing themselves around the table, lighted the tapers which were standing upon it, and each, besides, holding one lighted in his hand, they commenced the loudest and most inharmonious chanting, if such indeed it might be termed, I ever heard. This was continued for about twenty minutes, when the priest and curate arrived, and the former being presented with a pan of incense, which, when ignited, filled the whole place with the most odoriferous perfume, passed it three times over the coffin; he then laid it down, and taking from under his robe a long narrow phial, the top of which appeared to be perforated much like that of a pepper-cruet, thrice sprinkled the face of the child with the holy water, which it was said to contain. One or two of the friars then took up the coffin to convey it to the church, the cross being carried before it, and the priest heading the procession. The remainder of the friars, with a few relatives and other attendants, without much observance of order, walked on each side and in the rear; the former, at intervals, chanting as loudly and vociferously as before. When they arrived at the church, the body was taken to the upper part of it, and again placed upon a table, in the midst of lighted tapers, and nearly the same ceremony of chanting, sprinkling, and incense burning which took place in the house was repeated here, each friar holding a lighted taper, from three to five feet in length, – one similar to which, as a mark of respect to a stranger, was handed to me by the father of the child, which I held until the conclusion of the scene. The coffin, with its contents, was ultimately let down through a trap-door, into a vault by two friars, by means of a cord attached to each end of it, who, as they lowered it, swung it from side to side, bawling out a requiem well nigh sufficient to disturb the slumbering inhabitants beneath. On its reaching the bottom, the cords were thrown in, and the flaming incense having been passed three times over the opening, the trap-door was replaced, and the friars and others extinguishing their tapers, laid them upon the table, and the assemblage dispersed, – leaving upon my mind a mingled impression of pity and disgust for the deluded or designing actors in the scene, which to me displayed so much of the ludicrous as to divest it altogether of the solemnity which ought to attach to the occasion. But if even rites like these can be performed by men professing Christianity, and by rational beings, with sincerity, I am too much a friend to liberty of conscience, and universal toleration, to wish to treat them with levity and disrespect, and willingly forego those comments I might otherwise be tempted to indulge in, though I could not avoid asking myself again and again, during the day, Is this really the nineteenth century, and can such things be?

On the 3rd of November, there was a sale by auction of the various articles saved from our wreck, namely, 200 barrels of flour, (or what remained of that quantity, some having been used for bread for the passengers,) the sails, rigging, cables, &c. It had been generally notified throughout the island, and also at Corvo, for some days previously, so that we had little short of one hundred persons present. The spot fixed upon for this vendue was an open space about the centre of the town. The auctioneer was a most uncouth character, much resembling the constable that attended upon us under the rocks, and like him carried a long black thorn stick, pacing to and fro in front of the people, receiving their biddings as he passed along. The sale occupied nearly the whole of the day. The flour was purchased for exportation, not being allowed to be consumed on the island, for the miserable price of one dollar and seventy-five cents per barrel – the other lots about in proportion. The Priest bought the bell for church service, for eight dollars and sixty cents. It was a galling consideration that property should be thus sacrificed; but the case seemed without remedy, as there were only a few individuals with ability to make any purchases, and the expense of conveying the goods elsewhere would only have made bad worse, and the exertion used to save them at all altogether thrown away.

I observe the following memorandum of the day: – This day has been the most lovely and enchanting, both in brilliancy and temperature, I ever experienced, and were it not for the known anxiety of friends in England, I could be well content to exchange its dreary winter months for the spring-like softness of this luxuriant clime, of which I begin to envy the residents more and more.

It is with much pleasure that I speak of the great kindness of Mr. Borges and his family to Captain B. and myself, as well as of his care and attention, in his official capacity, for the rest of the passengers and crew, amounting absolutely to solicitude on their behalf; nor must I omit to mention the hospitality we experienced from other of his relatives, as also from a Spanish gentleman, Don Mariano H______ merchant of Flores.

Upon dining with Mr. L. Borges, the brother of our friend, who entertained us with much generosity, I was introduced to a new species of etiquette, namely, that of the master of the house and one of his sons assisting the domestics in waiting upon their guests, who were put in possession of the top and the bottom of the table, whilst his lady and the family, with the rest of the company, were seated along the sides. Whether our worthy host and his son dined before or after us, or whether they dined at all, I know not; but I do know, that, notwithstanding the marked attention it was designed to evince, it would have been abundantly more agreeable to me if they had dined with us. Wine was taken at dinner much after the English fashion, and our host did not fail, I believe, to drink to the health of every one separately, and to wish us a safe return to our native land.

This gentleman has a very fine orange plantation at a short distance from the town. It is situated on the side of a hill, which serves as a protection for the trees in the violent gales which sometimes occur here, and with serpentine walks leading from the bottom to the top. Upon a platform about the centre is a capacious summer-house, planted around with choice shrubs and flowers, where the family usually spend some portion of the year, and where, were I proprietor, I should most gladly spend the whole, there being no “pale concluding winter” here to “shut the scene,” but now, in mid November, all is freshness, and beauty, and odour. Most of the trees in the plantation are young, but in a very thriving state, and in a few years will yield a supply fully equal to exportation. At present no fruit is exported from Flores.

The Island of Corvo, at the nearest point, is about three leagues distant from Flores; but during my stay I had not an opportunity of visiting it, nor did I feel particularly anxious to do so, having seen a good deal of it on our approach, and the description I received of it holding out but few inducements. It is not more than one-fourth the size of Flores, very mountainous and rocky, and contains but about nine hundred inhabitants.

Since the time of our landing from the wreck we had anticipated the necessity of proceeding to Fayal, (distant from Flores about one hundred and twenty miles in a south-easterly direction,) or some of the other islands having intercourse with England, where we might take passage by a trader, or charter a vessel of sufficient size to convey us to our ultimate destination; to facilitate which Mr. Borges was indefatigable in his exertions. The two schooners, before mentioned as belonging to Santa Cruz, of about thirty or forty tons burden, happening to be in port at the time, he immediately proceeded to treat with their owners for our transit in them to Fayal, and terms were no sooner agreed upon than we commenced preparing them for sea. It was not until the 10th of November that the first schooner was ready, nor until three days afterwards that the wind permitted us to get her off; but on that day – (the 13th) – we succeeded in launching her with thirty-seven of the passengers. Previously, however, another schooner arrived from Fayal, and, ultimately, it being considered that the number of passengers still remaining, together with the luggage, reduced as it had been, with great loss to the owners, was more than ought to be embarked on one of these little vessels, it was concluded to put her also in requisition. This we were enabled to despatch on the following day with forty more of the passengers, the remainder of us intending to set sail next morning in the third; but the wind changed, and stormy weather succeeded so much so as to occasion many fears for the safety of those already on their way. Whilst we were thus detained, a schooner arrived from St. Michael’s, for a cargo of orchilla,* consigned to Don Mariano, the owner of the remaining schooner we had engaged, who proposed to us to transfer the charter to the one from St. Michael’s; assuring us that the orchilla, which would occupy but little space, was all ready to be put onboard, that she should take nothing else, – and immediately that was shipped should proceed with us to Fayal. At the time, seeing no objection to this proposition, and the state of the weather rendering it impossible to launch his schooner; the one from St. Michael’s being already without the Bar, in the hope of avoiding delay we acceded to it. To our mortification, however, we soon found, that besides the orchilla they were detaining the vessel to complete her loading with wheat, whale oil, pigs, &c. &c., several casks of the oil being lashed upon deck. This infringement of the agreement, of course, caused remonstrance, and much unpleasant altercation, almost determining us to relinquish the idea of going by her at all, and obliging Mariano to send his own schooner with us as originally stipulated. Things continued in this state until the morning of the – 17th, – when, in consideration of Mariano’s previous kind offices to ourselves, and also of his being the friend of Mr.Borges, to whom we were so highly indebted, and who proposed accompanying us to Fayal, upon receiving a positive promise that nothing more should be sent off to the schooner, we consented to go on board, and took our leave of Santa Cruz and many of its kind-hearted inhabitants, whom I shall long and gratefully remember. – It was about ten o’clock when we reached the schooner, and we were then given to understand that she was not cleared; nor was she ready, for presently other boats appeared with a still further quantity of loading, the property of the Governor. This was something too bad to be borne, and the captain of the schooner appearing to connive at the imposition, anchor being weighed, one of our party took possession of the helm; the sails were unfurled, and we set off, regardless of the risk we run in not having our clearances, and we had to thank Mr. L. Borges for following us some distance in a boat to bring them to us. – The abruptness of our departure from a spot which had afforded us so welcome a shelter I very much regretted, but am inclined to think that Don Mariano had scarcely the option of refusing to take the goods which the Governor wished to send; and to this underling in “brief authority” I attribute every thing of a disagreeable character connected with leaving, as well as the little occurring of that nature whilst upon the island.

* I have mentioned this amongst the exports. It is a weed of a grayish colour, valuable for producing a crimson dye, and monopolized by the Government. It grows principally amongst the rocks of the coast, from whence it is obtained by the peasants, oftentimes with extreme difficulty and risk. One of them had lost his life in attempting to procure it just before our arrival at the island. The price given to these poor creatures for collecting it does not exceed three pence per pound, whereas the Government obtains upwards of a shilling!

And now, “once more upon the waters, yet once more,” we had only to wish for a fair wind and quick passage, the craft we were in, (formerly one of Miguel’s store ships,) being wholly devoid of accommodation, and much the worse for wear. Including captain and crew, we numbered about fifty souls on board; as motley a group as is often seen: videlicet, English, Scotch, Irish, American, Portuguese, two Jews from Morocco, – the elder a Shylock personified, – pigs from Flores, and dogs from St.Michael’s.

Until ten o’clock in the evening we had very little wind, when it began to rain and blow fresh from an unfavourable quarter, and so continued for the most part of our voyage, which surpassed in wretchedness, (excepting danger,) all previous experience. For three days and nights, the whole of the rest which I got was upon a coiled wet cable on deck; the little box in the stern, denominated a cabin, being too insufferably offensive to enter, stuffed with people and luggage, and literally swarming with bugs. To add to the evils on deck, a cask of whale oil got stoved in, and its contents ran all about, so that, independent of the stench, it was with difficulty we could move or stand: – but I spare the reader a recital, loathsome even in reflection, and pass on to the morning of the – 20th – by day-break on which we were close in with the west end of Fayal, the density of the atmosphere not having permitted us to discern it before, and Pico being wrapped in a mantle of cloud down to its very base. The wind had now almost died away, and the ocean began to assume a lake-like smoothness: our sails were flapping idly against the masts, and scarce a dying murmur of the waves was audible upon the rocks of the coast. As the sun arose, the mists gradually dispersed, and never shall I forget the scene of beauty and of grandeur which then unfolded itself to our view. On our left lay the highly cultivated and luxuriant Fayal, a very Eden of loveliness, and before us, in all its sublimity, towered the mighty Pico. A few clouds still hung upon the sides of the mountain, but the sun was shining brilliantly upon the peak, which, from its immense height, and the obstruction below, had more the appearance of being suspended in ether, than of any thing resting upon a basis of earth. Its elevation above the level of the sea is not considered so little as 7,000 feet, and in clear weather it can be discovered seventy, and, it is said, even ninety miles off. But notwithstanding the sublime and exciting scenery by which we were surrounded, such had been the miseries of this short voyage, and such my eagerness to be again on land, that (I almost write it with a blush) I would have relinquished all for a few hours of fair wind to have brought us to an anchor in the Bay of Orta. We lay till noon almost becalmed, when a light breeze sprang up; but, to our mortification, just against us. Being scarcely more than a mile from land, often did I propose to have recourse to our boat, or even to swim ashore, rather than endure this very lazer-house of filth for another night; but I was assured by those more familiar with the arbitrary exercise of power than myself, though merely passing from one island to another, and our history and object well known that no one would be permitted to leave the vessel until we had been visited by the officers of both the revenue and health departments, and received their sanction to land. There was, therefore, nothing left us but submission to our fate, whatever it might be. At length I did manage to get the boat over, and several of our crew and others betaking themselves to the oars, we commenced the towing process. At intervals the wind so nearly died away, that, with great exertion, we were able to effect something; but again it vexatiously thwarted us, and drove us backward farther than we had advanced; and thus, hoping and fearing, advancing and receding, we continued until near six in the evening, when the tide turned in our favour, and we found ourselves slowly entering the channel between the islands of Fayal and Pico; and as soon as we were discerned from the fort of Orta, the capital of the former, several revenue officers came off to us, bringing us the agreeable intelligence that we should not be allowed to land before morning. Owing to eddy winds and calms, which, from the height and contiguity of the mountains, are very frequent amongst these islands, we did not come to an anchor until ten o’clock; shortly after effecting which, having lowered the sails, Mr. Borges and myself stowed ourselves away amongst them, and I may almost say slept for the first time since quitting Santa Cruz. When we awoke in the morning, we found ourselves safely moored within half a mile of the town, the appearance of which from the Bay is uncommonly fine and imposing, forming, with the projections of high land at either end of it, the most perfect and splendid amphitheatre. The town is built close to the shore, from which it rises to a considerable elevation, interspersed throughout with gardens, orangeries, and other plantations. It contains a great number of churches, convents, &c., which, “on first appearing before the little city, give it an air of architectural magnificence;” and viewing it altogether, you would be ready to estimate its extent and population at, at least, double what it really is.

It was ten o’clock before the officers of the health department came off to us, and near three hours after that before boats were despatched to convey us ashore. Some had been occupying this interval in sundry attempts at purification, and, it must be confessed, put on a rather more civilized aspect; but as for me, though I felt myself one of the filthiest of human beings, so I was determined to remain until I could effect my escape from this abode of defilement, and luxuriate in a thorough ablution. I have before said, and heard it said, that it is worth enduring extremes for the sake of their opposites: – I would not endure filth for anything, – but surely I never in my life more highly estimated the value of soap and fresh water, or arrayed myself in clean linen with a more exquisite satisfaction, than when they were presented to me upon landing in the city of Orta: – I seemed, indeed, as if I could scarcely have enough of either the one or the other; and fervently hoped, if this were a fair specimen, that I had for ever finished my sailing under Portuguese colours.

I had scarcely made my toilette when the American Consul, C. W. Dabney, Esq., most kindly called up on Mr. Borges, Captain Britton, and myself, with an invitation to dinner, which we gladly accepted, and accompanied him to his residence, – an elegant mansion, and which, for the magnificent beauty of its situation, has seldom indeed a parallel. It stands on the acclivity of a hill, in the centre of a garden, delightfully overlooking the town and bay, whilst immediately in front lies the vine-covered Island of Pico, with its lofty and majestic peak. The garden, which is most tastefully laid out, displays a rich variety of tropical and European trees and plants; – the orange, lemon, banana, fig, vine, apple, pear, myrtle, geranium, rose, &c. growing luxuriantly together, with “flowers of every scent and hue[.]” As contrasted with the scenes which had been passing before us for some previous days, it seemed rather like the work of enchantment than reality, nor were such impressions in any degree lessened when our kind magician introduced us to the interior of his abode, and to the attractive family circle by which he was surrounded. It was one of the quickest and most agreeable transitions in situation and feeling I ever experienced, – from a want of the commonest comforts of existence, to the enjoyment of its very luxuries; and from society of the lowest grade, to that of those replete with every refinement, and manifesting a truly generous and friendly interest in our fate. – After thus enjoying ourselves for the remainder of the day, in the evening, there being at Orta, as at Santa Cruz, no hotel, or other establishment of the kind, we retired to a vacant house on the outskirts of the town, which, upon landing, we had requested might be engaged, and partially furnished for our accommodation. Upon trial, however, it proved every way inconvenient and ineligible; so that betimes in the morning we sallied forth to reconnoitre the town in quest of a better, and succeeded, at last, in taking two small rooms in a house about mid-way along the main street, which, though nearly as destitute of cleanliness and comfort as those we had quitted, were much more agreeably situated, and, as we were assured, the best the town afforded that strangers would be likely to gain admission into.

Before noon we were again honoured with a call from Mr. Dabney, repeating a kind invitation to dinner, which, gratified as we had been on the previous day, we were in no mood to refuse.

In the course of the morning I paid my respects to the British Vice-Consul, Mr. Walker, (a pleasant, gentlemanly man, but, unfortunately, blind,) who having taken charge of the British subjects, had written to Mr. Read, the Consul-General, residing at St. Michael’s, for instructions how to proceed in conveying them home. He informed me of the steps which he had taken to provide, as far as possible, for their comfort; evident indications of which I had not failed to observe in the renovated attire of most I had met with, and some of whom, I doubt not, fared infinitely better at Santa Cruz and Orta than they ever did before, or, it is to be feared, ever will again. I received from this gentleman every polite attention, accompanied with offers of any assistance it was in his power to render me.

The afternoon of the day fully realized the agreeable anticipations of the morning in the intelligent and interesting society of the family at (what I shall term) Fredonia House; from whence we were not suffered to take our departure until, in the handsomest manner, I may say delicately so, to remove any diffidence on our part, Mr. Dabney desired us to consider the invitation extended to every day whilst we remained at Orta, and that, when not interfering with other engagements, we would visit them, without the least ceremony, upon all occasions.

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